Greg S

My most interesting army is my French Resistance.

Firstly its not hordes of uniformed guys all in the same colour.

Secondly, it wasn’t straight forward to assemble a large enough army of figures.   They come from at least half a dozen differnet manufacturers as well as ebay and took me several months to acquire.

Thirdly: it includes a whole h…[Read more]

I regularly use a Crusader AA tank to back up my late war Brits.  The only time I use HE is if I am firing at infantry in a building.

Infantry spaced 1″ between bases generally can possibly need more hits than targets with 1″ HE.  So if I get 4 hits I may actually hit only 3 guys because of the chain requirement. *

AP generates more kills than A…[Read more]

We always played it as couldn’t be hit in 1st ed and beta.  Ships’ big guns can’t traverse fast enough to catch a speeding destroyer.

They are very nicely painted carriers.

I believe that there will be adavanced rules and  expanded fleet lists coming.

I know Mongoose were planning a 3 book set before this became Warlord’s game.  I haven’t seen the rules in the starter game but I assume Warlord is planning something similar.

Yes. I tried to put yellow home-made decals on a black spaceship.   I would up trying several different types of decal paper before painting a white circle on the ship to apply the decal to.

So to boil it down a little, if one infantry unit fires two fausts at a transport and scores 1 damage roll and one massive damage roll, then rolls 1,1,4; do they inflict:

A) 1 pin for hitting and destroy the transport, forcing the transported unit to dismount with 1 pin; or

B) 1 pin fit hitting, 2 extra for 2 x crew stunned and destroy the…[Read more]

I milliput around the metal base, smoothing down to the edges of the mdf.  By the time you’e added sand, grass, snow or small bushes, it is hardly noticeable.

We don’t play it most of the time, because we often forget it. 🙂

I started out with tuppences, but soon figured out that 2mm MDF is both cheaper and lighter.  But for snipers and prone figures I use Warlord’s long bases.  For teams I use whatever works – sometimes MDF with magnets, sometimes MDF with holes, sometimes Warlord’s larger plastics.

It essentially the second edition of the Mongoose version.

I tend to first look at Warlord’s pictures, second google it.  If that doesn’t yield the answer, wing it – so long as the model looks ok on the table top no-one is going to question if there’s a small bit missing.

I dropped my German sniper figure not once, but three times, during assembly and painting.  The third time his gun barrel broke but n…[Read more]

There is a Kickstarter for  E100 tanks in 1/56.  They are monstrous machines.

I too am sure it will be worth the wait.  I love the original ( and its predecessor B5 ACTA) .  I playtested this edition for Mongoose and worked on the points for ships.  I really want to see the end result.

It’s been 8 years since second edition VaS was announced, a few more months win’t make much difference. 🙂

I prefer metal figures to be honest.  But even Warlord’s metals are beefy.  Often they are more deatiled than other manufacturers, but definitely of larger girth.

But any Warlord figure looks gigantic compared to tank crews.

Which new plastics do you feel are particularly bad?

The vehicle is assumed to move slightly to aim weapons that are fixed, even when they haven’t declared a move action, ie in ambush.  You don’t need to actually move the model.

Yes, is the short answer.  An AT attack will kill one man really, really well.

An AT gun has the option of firing HE, so it can get several men under a template, with the Pen based of the HE effect.  But a bazooka only kills one guy.

I have played historical battles and proxied miniatures, in fact proxied whole armies.  My Brits have stood in as Germans a lot.

Changing the terrain can also change the battle and play a lot.