Forum Replies Created
-
While the Churchill kit gives you the Petard mortar , you still have to scratch build the side mounting brackets for AVRE equipment ( red ) and change the bow gunners hatch ( blue ) . S&S models make these pieces in pewter . Wish I’ld known that before I scratch built the pieces for mine
Attachments:
I build my figures to fit in a specific spot on a specific tank so I tend to glue them on . That being said I do have a few generic seated figures that can be put anywhere if needed . I have had a few ideas for removable figure groups though . Tiny rice grain sized magnets might work in the figures feet if the plastic engine deck is very thin , probably wouldn’t work on resin tanks . I guess you could drill a hole in the deck and add your magnet but that would ruin the detail , not a problem when the troops are mounted but would look crap IMO when the troops are removed . You could drill tiny holes in the tank and mount pins in your figure’s feet . again the deck would look crap when troops dismounted . You could mount the troops on a thin plastic base ( maybe clear ) , easy to add . easy to remove . looks ?
You could glue the figures to each other so they end up in a 5 or 6 man set and maybe pin a foot or 2 to ensure they don’t fall of easily . although that would mean each set would custom fit to a specific tank .
As I have said before I don’t play Bolt Action so I have no need to have removable tank riders , but if I did play I would have use 2 tanks , both, weathered, decaled and covered in stowage the same , one with glued on tank riders , the other empty . I would also have figures identical to the riders mounted on ground bases to use when dismounted . I’ve done the same with Japanese figures in fox holes , I use a removable half figure ( torso ) in the hole and have an identical painted and armed full figure for when they charge thus leaving an empty fox hole . This also means your fox hole is only 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the table unlike those GW trenches which IMO look like crap
Those look really good . It’s a pity the early Brits and Germans aren’t compatable with the later plastics .. although I have used some of the arms on Rubicon figures . You never know where you’re going to find bits that work . Anybody tried cross kiting Wargames Atlantic arms with Warlord figures ?
Not done much hobby most of the summer but then went crazy in late September building a M3 Halftrack , a Matilda , a BMW motorbike , a half dozen Waffen SS & Brit Paras . Although the figure kits go together great . I’m not really liking all the molded on weapons , really cuts down on the kitbashing . Might have to pick up a box of Russians and Blitzkrieg Germans just for the weapon free arms .
Over the last couple of days I’ve been working on Russian tank riders for a couple of my own tanks as well as a buddy’s . I’ve managed to make 24 so far with very few leg swaps .
Attachments:
You could fire a Panerfaust , Shrek or Bazooka from inside a building but the back blast of pressure and extreme heat , would kill or badly injure anyone in the room behind you , besides probably setting the building on fire
Attachments:
That sounds very cool Allan . Do you have any pictures to share ? I think SOLIDO metal military vehicles would work with BA as they are close to 1/56 IRC . Of course when they were available in stores I was building 1/35 scale kits , the only one I managed to find at a swap meet is an AMX 13 tank , nice body detail but lousy tracks IMO . Probably hard to find them now as mine was made in 1975 .
I finally got around to adding tank riders to my extra JPanther hull , I got 9 figures to fit . The 4 standing figures had their legs swapped around , the 2 seated figures used the upper torsos from the FJ kit and the legs with short boots from the plastic seated German set . I used the legs with the jack boots on my seated Russian figures . So much easier than trying to covert standing to seated figures so watch out for them during the Sprue sales . The 3 man kneeling MG team are loose so can be used on the table top . It was a bit trial and error getting the look I wanted , I ended up using arms from most all of the German plastic sets .
-
This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by .
-
This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by .
Attachments:
Those guns look great . For me the hardest part would be getting a good looking gun barrel / breach built . A good “cheat ” would be the extra barrels that you get in the PSC Russian 45mm AT gun kit . I’ve also used GW gun breaches in my tanks to fill up space in turrets with open hatches ( early T34/76 , Pzr III & IV with turret side hatches open ) Wheels could also be a problem , is there any after market 1/56 wheels out there ? I’ve used Tamiya 1/48 wheels from bits I picked up at a hobby show /swap meet . And the Rubicon T-26 kit which shares a sprue with the BA 10 AC gives you 10 ( IRC ) GAZ ( 1930s Ford ) style wheels . The trail legs would be easy using Evergreen plastic pieces as would a flat gun shield . The more intricate shaped shields of late war guns might be a little trickier .And although Rubicon have some AT guns , I do wish someone would release more guns / howitzers in plastic
That MG 42 mount looks awesome . I might attempt that in 1/35 but 1/56 is too small with my bad vision and fat fingers .lol Best I can do is kit bash the kit parts with bits and pieces from the parts box . This is the crappy flat looking MG that comes with the Stalin II kit , with added ammo box / ammo , hand grips and balance cylinders , to give it a more 3D look
Attachments:
Some very easy but well thought out kit bashes there . Your right K98 , some can be a real PIA even if you done kit bashing for years . I’ve always liked Troop of Shewe’s conversions . Here’s a couple of his photos I saved from the old Warlord site ( from 2014 IRC ). I’ve tried to cut / bend some Brit troops to make seated figures like these but failed miserably . I did mange to make something similar using the German plastic seated set ,but you have to do a little surgery to remove the lower arm /hands molded on the legs
Attachments:
I thought the machine gun came with the top plate as a separate piece ,but I cant find the leaflet with it shown . I thought it was the late war Heer ( Warlords 1st German kit , skinny arms / weapons sprue ) but I only ever ordered them during the sprue sale for parts so got no instructions . Love the sub machine guns / MGs in that set but the riffles are smaller / thinner than later plastic sets & ammo box crap IMO so only bought one weapons sprue .Maybe I did make it as I only have one . Usually stuff I only have one of is stuff I made . . Just use a sharp chisel blade to cut and a thin piece of plastic for the plate , probably best to use a piece of one of the ammo belts from another set ( Panzer Gren / FJ ) as the belt attached to the box would need to be sanded thinner .
Do you kit bash tanks as well ? I’ve got a few of those that I’ve messed about with
