SteveT

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  • 1. Reece – look like a cheap infamy platoon ( 1 infantry unit minimum size as opposed to the normal 2). The t Recce ability being purchasable for all their transports might make it worth it

    2- yeah, they do all say Platoon Commander so you can pay what you want I suppose.  There are going to be loads of officers anyway, so I don’t think it’s a…[Read more]

  • Might be worth checking out (and even contacting) the chaps that run the SNAFU podcast. They focus on BA tournaments in your corner of the world. They also run their own. Very informative about the game in general too.

     

     

  • You could consider another National Characteristic instead of  Rapid Fire as that needs lots of rifles and you are “rifle light”. Perhaps Vengeance?

     

  • or the old “ricochet off the cigarette tin in my pocket” saved me but not the bloke behind me…

     

  • “I think I’ll model a FAO, but if I don’t like using it then it’ll just get used as a mortar spotter or something.”

    Very wise. Will save you from having to  fill out all those Friendly Fire Incident Forms.

     

  • The removal of casualties in this game is indeed confusing. When I started  this game, my thinking was naturally that I was taking out the ones I could see first.

    But you can fire at a group of  8 men, 2 of whom are behind a 20′ tall solid wall, get 2 kills and your opponent can remove the 2 that you have no LOS to at all.

    Even with e…[Read more]

  • What Nat said.

  • Under VEHICLES

    “…distances are measured to and/or from the closest point of the hull of the model itself”

    Under SHOOTING

    Measure the distance between each firing model and the closest visible enemy model in the target unit.”

     

    Note that they  seem to use Target and Target Unit interchangeably, even in the same…[Read more]

  • SteveT replied to the topic Indirect Fire Minimum Distance in the forum Bolt Action 4 weeks ago

    Well if you targeted a building that is 30cm  long, of which just 1cm of that building is within your minimum range, are you going to say it fails?

     

     

  • Yeah,, I think the M20 is a much better choice, especially if you can get one printed. Can even use it in an anti-tank role. We found pinning tanks up is as good as taking them out most of the time. (Just to preempt the pedants, some vehicles get a chance to ignore pins, see under Vehicles and Pinning).

     

     

     

  • The M18  is indeed very cheap, and a good way to sneak in an extra order die. But in a force that lacks HE (not a criticism, just a fact since you have limited figures and points), then I am not sure a 1″ burst is going to make much of an impact in any sense.

    [The med/heavy mortar and M18 all have “Fixed” meaning, amongst other things, they…[Read more]

  • As someone who has been playing against the US forces for years, I will list all their weaknesses here:

    — none.

    Your choice is fine.

  • A wash is just a thinned out pigment (can be purpose bought or DIY) . Also known as an ink in some corners. These are brushed on generously so that the pigment settles into the crevices to form a natural shading.

    Your best bet is to search on YouTube  “Painting 28mm xyz” as there will be 999 people talking about painting very precise troop types…[Read more]

  • SteveT replied to the topic Vehicle Questions in the forum Bolt Action 1 month ago

    Hey LT Russell,

    I know what you mean about this new-fangled thing they call electricity. More trouble than it’s worth sometimes!

    (A) The missing monster truck. Part of the explanation, I  think, is that we have to be real here and consider Warlord as first and foremost a model figure business, so they naturally (and quite rightly) tend to…[Read more]

  • I think the best constrictive criticism will come from  yourself and your opponent after Game 1.

    Personally, I might have avoided the medic, but I know you are going for theme, and it does at least give +1 order die and you do have an infantry heavy selection so maybe ok. And as mentioned earlier I  would have gone Heavy mortar over Medium (if a…[Read more]

  • Yeah , why not. If you also have the option of the Heavy variant of mortar, I’d be tempted. They are really nasty for slamming into enemy held objectives, buildings,   suppressing tanks, and rendering AT guns ineffective. I stopped bringing my German Flak 88s to most of our games as a cheap enemy mortar can easily shut it down.

    You might even be…[Read more]

  • I would avoid getting into close combat if you can with what you have there, as so many other troop types are better at it (Japanese, German SS , any engineers, or Veteran infantry of any kind, huge units  of inferior troops ).  You can really play to the strengths of that special rifle ability.  Having been on the receiving end of that re…[Read more]

  • If you are going to be facing historically accurate opponents, then as someone who plays a lot of  German vs US, I would say the German tanks/AT guns won’t care much either way that you have 8 or 9 armour. I know the Chaffe would be more annoying for me to face. Tanks only gets a few good shots per game and you can deny them their best…[Read more]

  • I know you are coming at this having just 1 box, so it poses a unique challenge

    (On the 2 platoon thing being cheating or not: As it’s all point based, it’s all good. Unless you are in some tournament or scenario that specially says 1 platoon max per player. I know when we started it was a way for us to use our then limited pool of figures.)

    I…[Read more]

  • 1st Lt vs 2nd Lt.  In my experience, those higher ranked leaders are hard to justify within smaller armies. I think they are better used by experienced players who can better see where a critical rush is called for.  If I were you, I’d stick to 2nd Lt at the moment.  And the 2nd LT does not give you any extra command radius either.

    The other th…[Read more]

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